What they do know is that the Cañari peole who lived here when the Incas arrived were not easily conquered. And from what I saw in the museum in Quito, they had a reason to be proud. For one thing, their art was way better than the Incas, but that’s just my opinion. For another thing, they were here way longer — centuries, in fact. The Incas didn’t even last a hundred years, and then the conquistadors did them in.

But the Incas did have a plethora of forts and outposts throughout Ecuador, including this one. They also manage to perfectly align their worship space such that the sun shone directly on a different god, displayed in these little alcoves, each season.

Incapirca worship space

For important areas such as a worship space, they also used top-grade construction by cutting stones to align perfectly without the aid of any mortar material.

Inca construction, tight blocks with no mortar

They also created sort of their own version of Mount Rushmore by making this cliffside look like their ruler.

Inca faces in stone

But I say it’s no wonder the Cañaris put up a fight. Some poor slaves, probably Cañaris, had to go fetch the water for some Inca’s ritual bath. This photo was taken from the bathtub. Those tiny figures way down there are cows, just to give you some perspective on how far this ancient Jack and Jill had to go. I also made the climb down and up, at an altitude of around 10,000 feet (approximately 3,000 meters), but much slower than our guide, whose lungs were much more adapted to the altitude.

View from the bathtub to the river

By afternoon I was back in Cuenca and exploring the city, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Although it has the requisite narrow, cobblestone streets and charming buildings, I have to say Cuenca is no Antigua (as in Guatemala). Of course, it’s much larger, and perhaps the population of nearly half a million eventually takes its toll since they have to live here as well as try and preserve the architecture. Or, as my travel companion said, “it looks like UNESCO got here too late.”

But wandering the old city and hanging out in Parque Calderón like the locals is a pleasant way to spend the afternoon. When that equatorial sun is out, it is burning hot, but the altitude of more than 8,000 feet (2530 meters) makes it just about perfect for a light shirt and slacks. After dark, a fleece will do.

Parque Calderon, Cuenca

Cuenca colonial buildings

Across from Parque Calderon

The new cathedral, started in 1885, is the centerpeice of Cuenca. In a skyline filled with church towers, the blue domes of the new cathedral — the Cathedral of the Immaculate conception — define the city.

Domes of the new cathedral, Cuenca

New cathedral, from Parque Calederon, Cuenca

Although in the Bible Jesus threw the moneychangers out of the temple, clearly Ecuadorians are counting on him having a sweet tooth. One wall of the cathedral, an entire city block, is lined with vendors selling cookies, cake and candy. Many of them looked the same to me from one stall to the next, but they must differentiate somehow. There were more versions of coconut candy and macaroons than I’ve ever seen, so naturally I had to try several. It was only later we noticed some vendors use netting to keep the flies and bees off their product. If you look closely at the detail, you’ll see an unwanted visitor.

Sweets vendor, Cuenca

Insects like sweets too

In search of a cab that evening we ended up following the sound of explosions and police lights to a celebration of Corpus Christi complete with fireworks, paper balloons and a procession for the Virgin Mary. I almost got taken out by the fireworks because I entered the street before I realized the man standing in the center of the intersection was putting on the show. He’d wait until there were no cars and then light a few commercial-grade pyrotechnics that whizzed past the 400-year-old buildings, exploded and then dropped back into the street around the crowd.

But everyone seemed to enjoy the show. Any cars that wanted to get through just drove around the fireworks man. The cops were all there standing by with their motorcycles in front of the church. Vendors sold roasted meat and popcorn balls while a brass and drum band followed the procession of worshipers into the church behind the illustration of the Virgin mounted on a truck bed.

Popcorn vendor outside church procession, Cuenca

The best part of all were the paper lanterns, lit on fire and propelled by hot air like balloons. Using a torch that looked like it was made of tree sticks, men lit the bottom of the lanterns and set them free to float past the crowd, the beautiful colonial buildings and then up into the black sky where they would eventually burn themselves up.

Fire lanterns over Cuenca for Corpus Christi

Sunday is very sleepy here in Cuenca. In fact, I would not recommend this as a weekend destination because you only get a day and a half. Most places are shut down on Sundays and all museums and churches close by 1 p.m. There was hardly even anyplace to eat.

The day started with the possibility of much food and drink, but then Ecuador lost the World Cup game against England. I spent the morning with Sue, my travel companion who is from England and knows more about the World Cup than anyone I’ve ever met (probably because most people I know are Americans). Excitement had been building all week and every time anyone found out where she was from they all wanted to talk about the game.

After much searching for a fun place to watch the big event, we found ourselves in a sports bar with about 10 patrons and 20 waiters. Another patron, who was from San Diego, told me the bar had been packed for every other game, but there were only gringos for this one. I think most people watch the game at home with friends and family. The only other bars we found that had any activity were near the university. But it was a cultural experience nontheless. I had chicken fingers for breakfast in a nearly empty bar while watching the World Cup with a British friend wearing an Ecuador shirt.

Sue and Lilli, final Ecuador World Cup game

If you’ve got some more time wander the world vacariously, check out Sue’s blog. She’s been on an around-the-world trip for close to a year.

But when it was time for the very long haul (potentially 9 hours) from Baños to Cuenca, my travel companion and I decided to hire a car to take us partway, and then catch a bus in the big city on Panamerican Highway. The proprietor of our hotel suggested this. “You can take the old road to Riobamba,” she said. “You´ll get there faster and you won´t have to backtrack.”

There´s a reason they call it the old road. And I wasn´t sure at first that it really would be faster. The problem is, in 1999, Tungurahua threw a bit of a fit and spewed lava all around. The road was completely blocked for three years. Fast forward, if you can call it that, and here´s what it looks like today in sections near Baños, complete with tractors and moving equipment about, some of it actually doing work.

Lava highway, the old road from Banos to Riobamba

Bridge of sorts and road carved out of lava

Some of the bridges appear to be a couple of planks across deep gullies of lava and mud flow. Actually, I think it was called the old road before the eruption, but there are still little villages and homes that clearly rely on this road. When we asked the driver how these people got around for three years he replied, “by horse.” Why didn´t I think of that?

I did get a glimpse of the source of all these problems on my way out of town. With all the cloud cover, I wasn´t convinced Tungurahua really existed when I was in Baños. But perhaps it wanted to taunt me for leaving it behind by showing off on a glorious morning.

Volcan Tungurahua

Not only did we get a glimpse of the volcano, around the other side was the stunning sight of Ecuador´s highest peak, Volcan Chimborazo, which is 20,710 feet (6,310 meters) high. This is what I imagined the Andes would look like.

Ecuador´s tallest peak, Volcan Chimborazo

But most mountains are not covered with snow and there is a lot of farming in the Andes, albeit lower down. Although it takes a long time to get places in the mountains, the scenery is spectacular. Most of the time I was on a bus though, and could not get photos. But thanks to the private transport to Riobamba, and again on a day trip from Cuenca, I managed to snap a few photos that are not at all close to how beautiful it really is.

The Andes

Water reservoir for Andean farms

It was hard to get this photo, as the indigenous people who live in a traditional manner don´t really appreciate everyone taking photos of them. But look closely and you´ll see men tilling the soil with an oxen-drawn plow.

Farming in the Andes, near the village of Incapirca

Many houses are still made in the traditional manner, but there are plenty of lovely modern homes too. In fact, I noticed many new, modern homes and a number of others under construction as we got within an hour or two of the big city. I asked the driver about this and he said, those are the homes of people who immigrated to the U.S. or other places.

Traditional construction, near the village of Incapirca

Church and house in the Andes north of Cuenca

This really isn´t a good photo, but may be the only one I´ll get of how one actually cooks an entire pig here in Ecuador - with blow torch. Why didn´t I think of that either?

How to roast a pig, outside of Cuenca

Next stop, the colonial city of Cuenca and the Inca ruins at Ingapirca

The town of Baños is one of Ecuador´s most popular sites for locals and international travelers alike for the lush vegetation hanging off the mountains, an active volcano, numerous waterfalls and hot springs. Its subtropical climiate is great for outdoor adventures like rafting, trekking, mountain biking, volcano climbing and hiking — when it´s not raining.

Well, maybe some people are hardier than me, or are less exhausted when they get to Baños and are willing to be wet for hours and days to partake of all this adventure. But I am not among them.

It rained most of the 36 hours I was in Baños. Until this morning that is, when I could enjoy the beautiful sunny weather on my way out of town. I got wet enough walking around the town yesterday morning, looking for a better place to stay for the second night, getting some lunch and generally checking things out. This involved getting wet, avoiding puddles, stopping to eat some taffy pulled on a nail on a wooden post, splashing around some more and then stopping in a cafe for a cup of tea. But we did find a lovely place to stay - Posada del Arte.

Posada del Arte, Banos

Posada del Arte, Banos

By the afternoon, it was clear there was no mountain biking in my day, so I spent the afternoon at a spa of sorts — El Refugio. I´m now traveling with a friend I met on the Galapagos trip, and we decided we deserved a day to be pampered after all that hard touristing.

Somehow, between my enthusiasm for the journey and my incomplete understanding of the entire Spanish conversation, I was talked into being closed into a steam cabinet, seated, with my head sticking out the top for about 45 minutes. This doesn´t sound so bad, you may say. But wait, there´s more. After about 15 minutes or so, the spa lady opened the cabinet and dumped a bucket of freezing cold water over my head - twice!

I knew that the bath would involve cold water at some point. I´d figured that much out. And I only yelped a bit the first time she hit me. So I thought - well, that was refreshing and now I feel very alert. Then she closed me back in the cabinet and said she would be repeating the cold water treatment four times. “Next time you won´t feel a thing,” she said. What a weird job - to pour freezing cold water on people while they scream.

After awhile, some Ecuadorians came - two men and two women - for the privilege of having the same punishment / treatment. Sue, who had quite a bit to say when the water was dumped on her, says I was the toughest of the group. The way those men were carrying on, you´d think somebody was killing them. They sounded like they were practically crying. I fully expected one to call for his mother. Perhaps having all those teeth drilled without novacaine when I was a child now has the advantage of making me appear to not be a wimp in public. But if I hadn´t been some kind of a weenie, I would have been biking or hiking in the rain.

Although rustic, El Refugio, as the spa is called, decorated its cinderblock walls with brightly painted murals throughout. During my steam bath, I was able to look out huge windows at the beautiful mountains, a river babbling across jagged stones, low clouds and rain.

Afterwards I had a massage complete with incense and Enya-like music. It wasn´t the most firm massage I´ve ever had, but at the end they rubbed my body with hot, smooth river rocks, which felt really good.

Unfortunately, I have no photos of El Refugio, or of me with my head sticking out of the steam cabinet. I did not take my camera, since I wasn´t sure what the security would be like. Instead of Burke-Williams, where they give you a secure, private locker with a fluffy towel, robe and sandals, at El Refugio we got a plastic basket to put our things in and wore our own bathing suits and flip-flops. After walking around for a couple of minutes after the bath, we found someone who could finally give us some towels. Guess we were supposed to bring our own.

The result is I feel much more rested after a somewhat less adventurous day, so I must have needed that steaming and freezing. Unfortunately, with time short, I decided I will have to take advantage of all the charms of Baños another time. I did manage to have a couple of nice meals including one that came with entertainment. Las Alturas, an Andean band playing traditional instruments stopped by for a few songs and to sell CDs, which, of course, I bought. They were quite good and if I can figure out how to get a sound clip on here, I´ll do so at some point.

The Andean band Alturas, in a Banos restaurant

I managed to snap a few photos in the beautiful morning of my departure including the one small waterfall you could see from the hotel, Bridal Veil Falls, at the foot of which is a public bath fed by hot springs. Apparently, you can jump from the hot pool into the waterfall, but I´d already had enough cold water for one day.

Bridal Veil Falls, Banos

I don´t have the time or energy right now to tell you everything, but I hope to backfill more stories when I get home. For now I´ll just give you the highlights.

Every day in The Galapagos you do or see at least one amazing thing that you would only do once every few months or maybe only once a year at home. Even those on my boat who´d been traveling for months found this to be the most amazing part of their journey. One reason is because there are many species and things about the Galapagos that exist absolutely nowhere else in the world, and they are all incredible.

Here´s my list of most amazing moments in no particular order:

Marine iguanas

Swimming with a Marine Iguana
The Galapagos has the only swimming iguana in the world. While snorkeling the other day, one jumped off the rock where he was sunning himself, and zipped by, spikes and all, propelled by just his tail.

Young sea lion

Snorkeling with a Sea Lion
Sea lions here are tame, curious and playful. A young sea lion performed a water ballet all around me to get a good look. I was just as curious about him, but far more akward. So I floated while he swam within five inches, close enough for me to see his teeth! But he was just playing.

Courtship of the waved albatross

Mating Dance of the Waved Albatross
Up, down, back and forth, the albatrosses face one another and click their beaks together in a funny but touching display of affection.

Shark Encounter
I´m always falling behind the group during snorkeling because I want to see everything, and I like to be away from the crowd. So I was a bit isolated when a four-foot long white-tipped shark went gliding by below me, close enough to very clearly see the white tips even in somewhat murky water. When I called out to the others to find out if they´d seen it, they were coming towards me, following the shark to have another look. Now with companions, I felt braver, and went along for another look. There were four in all.

Pinnacle Rock, from a volcano atop Bartolome Island

Sunset From the Volcano Atop Bartolomé Island
Although this is volcano is less than 1,000 feet, the view is spectacular. Lava craters as big as a house, stark volcanic landscape that looks like it could be the moon, the isthmus of the island with Pinnacle Rock, the most photographed part of the islands.

Water Bottle Rescue
One day someone dropped their water bottle getting back into the panga (dinghy) that took us on our excursions. Our driver stretched out over the water in a Herculean effort to retrieve it. Everyone watched as if it were the ninth inning with the bases loaded, waiting in anticipation, hoping he´d beat the currents. The entire boat erupted in cheers when he grabbed the wandering rubbish and brought it safely back where it belonged. In this pristine environment, you see the water bottle floating in the water for what it truly is - an assault on the planet. If only we took so much care to the rest of our world.

Blue-footed booby

Red-footed booby

Blue and Red-Footed Boobies
One of the most extraordinary-looking creatures on the planet, boobies are named thus because they look silly, or so my guide tells me. He says this is a form of sexual selection (there´s lots of Darwinian talk in the Galapagos), so theoretically the first boobies to have colored feet must have scored a lot more than the plain boobies, and now they are their own species, unique to the Galapagos.

Glittering Swarms of Yellow-Tail Surgeon Fish
I have dived on the Great Barrier Reef, in the Maldives and many other world-class destinations, but nothing surpasses the richness of marine life in The Galapagos. Hundreds of these light blue fish with bright yellow tails move as one undulating body, swarming to all feed on a spot of coral, then gliding off into the distance.

Tortoise in the wild, Santa Cruz Island

Giant Tortoises in the Wild
On Santa Cruz Island, there are places where the giant tortoises for which the islands are named ramble along in their natural habitit. To look off into the brush and see a tortoise just as I might see a coyote, racoon or rabbit at home, just seems weird in a wonderful way.

Fending off Seasickness by Light of the Full Moon
One of the first nights I made the mistake of showering after we started sailing. Fresh air is the antidote to all motion sickness, so I went up top and propped myself up on the most comfy cushions. All alone, I focused on the glorious rising of a full moon against the dark, empty sea and sky.

Cliffs on Las Plazas

Cliffs Off One of the Las Plazas Islands
High above the sea, waves crashing against the sharp black rocks, with absolutely no human habitation in sight.

Quiet of the Ocean Under Sail Power
The day we traveled from one side of Española Island to the other, we put up the sails and shut off the engine. Just the wind, islands and vast expanse of sea that belongs only to the fish and birds and creatures who claim these islands as their only home.

Beach scene, Espanola Island

Floreana Island

Pristine Beaches of Many Colors
From soft white that would make the Carribean jealous to green tinted with olivine to chocoate brown to chai tea, The Galapagos has it all. Floreana Island is brown and olivine from volcanic material on one side and white from coral and shells on the other.

Lava tunnel, Santa Cruz Island

Lava Tunnel on Santa Cruz Island
I felt like Indiana Jones crawling over fallen rocks in the dimly lit tunnel. It was about 20 or more feet high in most places, until the end, when I had to crawl on my belly to get out.

Volcanic formations, Santiago Island

Lava Flows and Ash Layers of Santiago Island
Now set as stone, the volcanic terror created a geological masterpiece. It´s also a playground for sea lions pups who swim in an aquamarine natural pool with a rock bridge, and where the tide fills water holes that rise and fall as much as four feet with each wave of the ocean.

The Bishop, Santiago Island

The Bishop Natural Statue on Santiago Island
An extraordinary geological structure in a corkscrew shape, this natural statue in Buccaneer´s Cove also resembles a chess piece. The locals say it is named for a famous bishop, but I was so busy staring at it and taking pictures of it, I didn´t get the whole story on who he was.

Mother and child

Dad, mom and baby frigate birds

Babies
There is something different in the Galapagos at every time of the year, but I was fortunate to be there for many babies or babies-in-the-making. Nursing sea lions, fluffy frigate bird babies tended by mom and dad, Nazca boobies gathering twigs to build nests together, frigate birds offering twigs as a matrimonial promise, love calls and responses, the mating dance of a flock of flamingoes stepping back and forth in unison.

Feeding boobies, Santa Cruz Island

Booby Feeding Frenzy
Up at dawn in search of marine turtles in the mangroves on Santa Cruz Island, we watched in awe as thousands of blue-footed boobies descended on the lagoon and collectively crashed into the water. Then they all took to the sky again, circled the lagoon and together hit the water like bombs dropping from the sky. A final extraordinary experience on the last excursion of the trip. Just when I thought it couldn´t get any more amazing.

Clockwise from top: female, two males and juvenile frigate bird

It was also the most exciting snorkel, since that’s where I saw the white tips of the white-tipped shark (see higlights blog). The island is shaped like a horseshoe, so we snorkeled inside the shoe, along the wall. On my right was a rocky wall teaming with fish. On my left, the abyss.

At least that’s what it looked like. I guess you’d eventually reach the other side of the horseshoe, but the water was deep. Deep enough to keep sharks and rays happy, although I saw one ray, larger than my coffee table, hanging out on some rocks just a few feet below me.

This is also where I saw the most enormous parrot fish I’ve ever seen in my life. This may be a fish story, but I swear they must have weighed 20 pounds. And I saw a rainbow wrasse, usually home-aquarium size, that had to be seven inches long. All in all, an awesome last snorkel, except that it was the last snorkel of the entire trip.

We started the day with a panga ride along the cliffs, looking for seabirds, including penguins. I saw penguins a couple of times, but could not get a good photo. I had no problem getting photos of boobies though. Someone asked me if I was really that close to the animals, or if I was using a telephoto. No professional-quality camera for me, but as you can see in this photo, I really was that close.

Curious Nazca booby, and my shoe (lower right)

We spent the morning searching for an elusive owl that is, apparently, not noctural. It may not have been sleeping, but it certainly wasn’t sticking around waiting for us. A couple of people allegedly saw one through binoculars, but I was not among them. Still, walking along with a view of the ocean is never a bad time.

As we approached the sea cliff that makes up the outside of the horseshoe, I saw what looked like flies — thousands of black specks in the sky. But they were petrels, birds that appear to be constantly in motion. Camilo says this is to avoid predators, but it looked exhausting to me. The sky was littered with them.

Petrels litter the sky over Genovesa

There were also many red-footed boobies on this island, more than we’d seen anywhere else. Camilo says the red-footed booby with the blue beak is unique to Genovesa. This guy sort of looks like his mother didn’t know how to dress him.

Red-footed booby with a blue beak, unique to Genovesa

The afternoon was supposed to just be a time to hang out at the beach, but it turned out to be some of the best bird watching of the entire trip. This was the closest we came to many birds, and the mangroves made it one of the prettiest areas, certainly one of the most green.

Male frigate bird, in all his mating glory

Red-footed boobies nest in the mangrove trees of Genovesa Island

Swallow-Tailed Gulls, Genovesa Island

Frigate bird communing with boobies, including a rare red-footed booby with white feathers

We also saw a young fur seal (fur sea lion) that appeared to have been adopted by a regular sea lion. Our guide says this is extraordinary, to see them together like that.

Extraordinary sight: a sea lion (left) and fur seal lounge together, Genovesa Island

Even the sand here held plenty to be in awe of, especially the tiny violin crabs, so named because they have one enormous claw that makes them look like they’re playing an instrument.

Tiny violin crabs. They have one giant claw and one small.

Seashells; Genovesa Island

Then after seven magical days, it was over.

Our last briefing board: the tortoise says it all

Sunrise aboard The Beagle, near Santa Cruz Island

There was one last trip, at sunrise, to the placid mangrove lagoons on Santa Cruz island. Here a spotted eagle ray flapped by alongside our panga in crystal-clear water so shallow I could have waded. In the distance we saw a whole school of rays flapping like smooth birds just below the surface. A couple of turtles, a shark, and then, just when we thought it was over, the flock of boobies in a feeding frenzy. An incredible finale to the journey. It was fitting that just when I was content to be present in a glittering dawn, something else extraordinary came along. That’s how it always was for me in The Galapagos. Every day was magic.

Boobies fill the sky over mangrove lagoons, Santa Cruz Island

It was sad to pack up and leave this pristine paradise. But it’s pristine and a paradise because it is left in its natural state. It would not be either if people were to move in and try to make it their paradise. There should be some parts of the planet that are left to other creatures.

I promise not to repeat everything on that blog post, but will offer a few more photos and highlights here.

James Island aka Santiago
I could not get enough of the volcanic landscape of this beautiful island. I love how the textures flow and change, and how life of birds and sea creatures is so abundant amid the former destruction.

Sally Lightfoot crabs, Santiago Island

Volcanic rock formation, Santiago Island

Volcanic rock formation, Santiago Island

Volcanic rock, Santiago Island

These photos demonstrate the miracle of camoflauge. You may need to enlarge some of them to get a good look.

Yellow-Crowned Night Heron, Santiago Island

Not sure who these guys are. Do you know?

American Oystercatchers, Santiago Island

Painted Locust -- Santiago Island

Santiago/James Island was the first place we saw the Galapagos Fur Seal. It is not technically a fur seal, says Camilo, but a fur sea lion. It has a much thicker coat than regular Galapagos sea lions, more like its relatives in the artic, so it prefers deeper water and cool shade. Its face is rounder, like a bear, thus it has the scientific name arcto bear cepahlus head.

Fur sea lion with marine iguanas, Santiago Island

All that, and it was still morning!

Bartolomé Island
We started the afternoon with another awesome snorkel. This time at Pinnacle Rock, the most photographed spot in the Galapagos. Here you can see it from the front. Down below is the spectacular view from atop the volcano. We snorkeled just off this beach where the water was warmer than in any of the other locations, a welcome change. This famous rock is where I saw the marine iguana swim right by me.

Pinnacle Rock, beach view, Bartolome Island

Of course, the water was still chilly enough that I welcomed the hot chocolate that awaited us upon our return to The Beagle. A quick shower and change of clothes and I was ready to hike up the volcano. Actually, it was more of a walk/climb since there was a wooden walkway with stairs up the peak. Camilo says people were wandering off the path and damaging the fragile volcanic landscape, so they built an artificial path to keep visitors from straying. It also makes it easier to climb up the gravely incline.

Although the view of Pinnacle Rock below is the most famous (shown here with some of my shipmates), the view of the craters off the other side is also spectacular.

Craters on Bartolome Island

Girls who go their own way: Sue, from London; Jessica, from New York; me, from LA

As you can see in the photo, there were three solo travelers on The Beagle — all women. In my travels I always meet solo women travelers, but rarely ever men, especially men over 30. Yet another reason God created Eve. It appears though, that Eve can get along just fine on her own. Not sure how that bodes for the propagation of the species (in the Galapagos these types of things are a constant source of discussion), but it seem to be the way it is.

Officially, today’s featured creature is the flamingo, but I was far more impressed by the curious young sea lion who wanted to swim with our group.

Camilo's briefing board, day five

Unlike most of the other animals in The Galapagos, flamingos are viewed from afar, but their shrimp cocktail color makes a striking contrast against the muddy brown lagoon.

Flamingos doing a mating dance, lagoon on Floreana Island

To get to the lagoon, we made a wet landing on a chocolate brown beach tinged with olivine crystals. You could actually see tiny grains of the green glass by sifting a handful of sand. Just 400 meters away, across the isthmus on the other side of the island, was a white sandy beach. (You can see photos of these on my highlights blog.)

Along the way, I also snapped this photo of a pelican. There are many in the islands, but they don’t get a lot of attention because they are not nearly as exotic as their neighbor birds.

Pelican, Floreana Island: not so exotic, but quite handsome

This was also another chance to be amazed by the blue-footed boobies. Although numerous, I was never bored by them.

Blue-footed booby, Floreana Island

This was also my best shot of a Sally Lightfoot crab. You’ve got to love a crab with a name like that. And they are beautiful, and plentiful.

Sally Lightfoot crab, Floreana Island

The white sandy beach is where the marine turtles lay their eggs. Perhaps turtles are like people in this regard, going for the Cancun-type beach view. More likely, it has something to do with tides, currents and the number of predators. I wasn’t privileged to see any baby turtles, or even any moms, but I was amazed at the tracks. If you’d told me this was a tractor, I would have believed it, but there are no motorized vehicles anywhere near this place.

Marine turtle tracks, Floreana Island

The highlight of the day though was snorkeling at Devil’s Crown, a collapsed volcano, where I got to swim with a sea lion (see highlights blog), but there was much, much more including what seemed like hundreds of chocolate chip sea stars and enormous schools of fish.

The current was strong, so at one point we got back on the panga and our driver, Luis, took us around the other side of the crown where the sharks hang out. At that point, it became somewhat of a drift snorkel, just floating along with the current. That is until Camilo spotted sharks. Then I got some actual exercise by doing a full-on freestyle sprint to reach them. These sharks were far below the surface, maybe 10 feet deep, unlike the one I encountered a couple of days later.

Unlike anyplace else I’ve ever dived or snorkeled, I have to say I was impressed with how well we were taken care of by The Beagle. Each time we snorkeled, Luis, who is one of if not the best dinghy driver I’ve ever seen, would follow along in the panga in case someone got tired or too cold or just needed to get out.

After another fantastic lunch, we navigated to Post Office Bay on the other side of Floreana. There we continued the old whaling tradition by posting our letters in a barrel where other travelers could pick them up and deliver them.

Mailing my postcards, Post Office Bay, Floreana Island

Someone would grab a handful of letters from the barrel and call out destinations. If there’s one nearby home, you call out to take it. Then you have the responsibility of delivering it when you return.

Of course, this is not the way mail is officially posted in The Galapagos. There is a fully functioning postal system in Ecuador, but it makes one feel a part of the larger world community. It’s fun to read messages left by visitors from all over the world. Surrounding the barrel are license plate holders, bumper stickers, luggage tags, placards and even a message in a bottle from a couple of little kids.

I guess it’s one of those places that people just want to say, “I was here.” Since it is also one of the more unique aspects of The Galapagos, it’s also a place for a group photo. Really, a guide’s work is never done. Not only does he (or she) have to know oceanography, geology, biology, history, orinthology and probably many other ologies, he also has to know photography.

Our guide Camilo, center: naturalist extraordinnaire and not a bad photographer either

After sorting the mail, we were planning to look for more marine turtles on our way back to The Beagle, but the waves were too big, probably part of that big storm that damaged many coasts along the Pacific. This left plenty of time to lounge on deck with snacks and a glass of wine. The motor got a boost from the sails, which gave us a more scenic sunset on the way to our next destination, six hours away.

Sunset from my perch on the deck of the Beagle

What a day — morning and afternoon encounters with the islands’ most famous residents, the Galapagos tortoises; exploring the volcanic geology of the islands in the afternoon with a climb through a lava tunnel; and then a lovely dinner in the highlands to top it all off.

Galapagos tortoises, Charles Darwin Research Station

It’s just the most amazing thing to see these enormous animals, especially in the wild. (I wrote about this in my highlights blog.) It reminds of seeing wallabees in the bushes at the golf course in Australia. Only this seems even more extraordinary, probably because you can get so close. The tortoises seem to patiently tolerate your existence, as is their nature, going their own way, which sometimes involves lumbering right towards any visitor who may be in their path.

I took hundreds of pictures during my trip, but this was one of the hardest blogs to choose photos for because I probably have a hundred photos just of tortoises.

Camilo's briefing board, day four

After another overnight navigation of several hours (this time I took Dramamine before we started moving), we awoke to human civilization again. Puerto Ayora is the largest area of human habitation in the Galapagos, home to more than half of the island’s population. A peek out my tiny porthole showed tens of boats large and small, and buildings all along the coast.

But the trip back to the world was worth it because this is the home of the Charles Darwin Research Station. Scientists from all over the globe are stationed here to study the unique wildlife of the islands — creatures that are often found no where else in the world. The islands are a living laboratory of natural selection and habitat.

Galapagos mockingbird, endemic to the islands, shows the way to the Charles Darwin Research Station

The Research Station is home to the tortoise breeding center. In previous centuries, sailors found tortoises an excellent source of fresh meat, a rare thing when one was at sea for years at a time. The animals were taken aboard alive, and could survive for a long time with little maintenance. More recently there have been problems with habitat destruction in the form of introduced species such as goats. One chart at the research station shows the results of an eradication program for non-endemic species.

The result of this past scarcity is that visitors get to see tortoises in all stages of development, from babies smaller than your hand to full-grown adults weighing as much or more than a person.

Baby tortoises, breeding center, Charles Darwin Research Station

The babies are color-coded with paint that eventually wears off. The markings indicate what island their type is from so they can be placed in the wild when they are a few years old. They stay with their own kind when they’re very young, then graduate to a more natural environment with tortoises of other types.

At the research station there are natural habitat areas for adult tortoises where visitors can walk right up to them. There are certain areas within the habitat that you cannot walk on, but you can get as close to a tortoise, maybe closer, than you probably do to most of your co-workers.

Full-grown tortoises in adult habitat at the research station

Visitors take photos of the islands' most famous residents, inside the Charles Darwin Research Station

Tortoise backside, Charles Darwin Research Station

After visiting the research station we were on our own until lunch, which gave us time to buy souvenirs in the station’s gift shop or from one of the many little shops that line Darwin Avenue the half mile or so back to the pier.

In the afternoon we took a van to a ranch about a half hour up into the highlands of Santa Cruz island, where tortoises roam wild in their natural habitat. It is one of the strangest things, to look off into the brush and see a tortoise, lumbering along. It seems like it should be a movie or even a cartoon.

Tortoise in the wild, Santa Cruz Island

These tortoises are not as used to people as those at the research station, so we didn’t get quite as close and were sure not to make too much noise. Their normal habitat is quiet and peaceful, bucolic really.

Tortoises share the ranch in their natural habitat on Santa Cruz Island

Galapagos tortoise, natural habitat, ranch on Santa Cruz Island

After a wondrous hike through the ranch, exploring tortoise habitats, we had an adventure worthy of Indiana Jones navigating through a lava tunnel. Very cool. I wrote more about this on my highlights blog.

The evening ended with dinner at the captain’s sister’s home high atop Santa Cruz Island, with a view of the town below and the ocean and islands beyond. Quite a lovely hacienda-style front dining room with high arched windows looking out to sea and a fantastic meal. We even sampled the orange wine, one of the things for which the Cruz family is famous. I couldn’t pass up a taste of it — more like cognac than wine.

Blowhole, Espanola Island

The downy feathers of the world’s whitest bird, spectacular spray of a blowhole on the oldest island in the Galapagos, young sea lions frolicking in aerial flips and underwater turns worthy of Sea World — only here it is as as they were meant to be, in cold clear water of their natural home.

Briefing board, day three

A bit of a hairy landing today due to rough seas. It was tough getting into the cement pier, so we climbed across slippery, wet rocks instead. Of course, the sea lions really own the place, so they park on the pier or wherever they want. To get them to move, we clap and they eventually move out of the way because they don’t like the noise. But this time it was only the sea to blame.

We arrived on the sand to hundreds or perhaps thousands of marine iguans. Here they are red and black, and seemed to clump together more than on the other islands.

Marine iguanas, Espanola Island

There are also countless birds here, especially the famous boobies. Yes, they are named booby because they look silly, especially the ones with the blue feet. At least, that’s what our guide said.

Blue-footed booby, adult and juvenile

This island is home to many Nazca boobies, sometimes called the masked booby. Camilo says some famous orinthologist decided this is the whitest bird in the world. I believe it because it’s feathers are so beautiful, they look so soft, that I kept thinking at first that they might be juveniles, still developing their stiff feathers. But this is really what they look like.

Nazca booby, the world's whitest bird

They make their home in the rocks out of twigs surrounded by guano. Although most of us wouldn’t think of putting our nest in the toilet, apparently it keeps insects and other pests out. Since these are volcanic islands, the Nazca was likely one of the first birds to live here since they do not require any trees for nesting.

Booby nests along the coast of Espanola Island

The waved albatross is the largest bird that breeds in the Galapagos. Although one book I read said it is endemic, Camilo says they also live on the mainland. A guidebook says Española has the only waved albatross colony. Whatever or wherever, they are gorgeous. I wrote more about this in my blog on the highlights of my trip.

Waved albatross colony, Espanola Island

This afternoon we moved from oneside of Española to the other by sail power. Just the quiet of wind and waves. No motor at all, just four huge, beautiful sails.

From the deck of The Beagle, under sail power

We landed at Gardner Bay where those of us who pushed aside concerns of overcast skies and chilly water were richly rewarded with great visibility and stunning sea life.

I could go on and on with lists of amazing fish I saw, but I have no underwater photos. Suffice it to say I have dived in some of the world’s greatest underwater locations, from the Great Barrier Reef to the Maldives, but this ranks right up there at the top of the list. My favorite surprise of the day were the brilliant purplish-blue Pyramid Sea Stars and the Chocolate-Chip Sea Stars — puffy, cream-colored, with dark chips all over them.

All I can say is, thank you to The Beagle for providing wet suits because you really need them. Water that runs about 70 degrees Farenheit (about 22 degrees Celsius) is really not warm at all. The shorties provided by the boat made it possible to stay in nearly an hour. Had I had not been on the edge of serious chilling effects, I would have stayed much longer.

American Oystercatchers, Gardner Bay, Espanola Island

But then I would have missed a late afternoon walk on the powdery white sand beach. This is one of the few times on the tour to just relax and look around — and realize the absence of roads, houses, trash or concrete. The boat anchored in the bay is the only sign of human life as far as the eye can see. There are few places on the planet where this is possible, especially along any coast. The aloneness of it all is an amazing experience. Of course, there are plenty of sea lions and other creatures to keep you company.

Sea lion encounter, Gardner Bay, Espanola Island

After spending the night in a calm channel between Baltra and Santa Cruz islands, I woke when the engines started right on schedule at 5 a.m. and tried to doze as we rode up and down the waves for an hour to our first destination, Las Plazas.

The daily 7 a.m. breakfast was a bit tough, having to be reasonably polite at least, if not perky, in front of all the other guests, but it was always worth it. Although I never eat jam at home, I felt obliged to have at least one piece of toasted homemade bread and guava jelly made by the captain’s family. That was on top of fresh fruit, fresh juice, sausage and eggs. It’s okay to eat three large meals and snacks every day, another guest told me, because we’re being active. True, although not cardiovascular-type active, I thought, and my tight clothes are proof of this.

Every evening, Camilo, our guide, would use his considerable artistic talent and extensive knowledge as a trained naturalist to brief us on the next day’s expedition.

Camilo's briefing board - day two

I took a photo of the briefing board each day to keep track of my photos. The night before I left, I sat next to some people at an Internet cafe who realized they couldn’t remember which island they’d taken which photos on. Some islands have distinctive wild life; others are similar. Sure, lava lizards on one island do five push ups to demonstrate their prowess instead of seven, like they do on another island, but that’s hard to keep track of unless you’re a professional. I used Camilo’s drawings.

Las Plazas
Amazing, beautiful island. We started along a slope of cactus forest with prickly pears the size of trees and orange-tinted iguanas that matched the succulent foliage. Sea lions basked along the beach or in the shade of the giant cacti.

Las Plazas cactus forest

Land iguana in front of a prickly pear trunk, Islas Plazas

There were many nursing mothers and more than once we saw juveniles still suckling from their mothers. Camilo says they’re greedy, or perhaps their mothers just spoil them here. I did see one juvenile pestering its mother who was barking back at him, probably to go get his own food.

Mother sea lion nursing baby and juvenile

This island is known for its bachelor sea lion colony. This is where all the guys hang out who couldn’t find a mate this year, sort of like Friday night at a frat house without the beer. Some lay around nursing wounds inflicted when they challenged larger sea lions. Perhaps others just wallow in their misery.

The bachelors, Islas Plazas

They have a spectacular view though - not a bad place to be if you’re feeling like a loser.

Cliffs on Islas Plazas

The rocky cliffs are an ideal home for many sea birds, including the red-billed tropicbirds that have slender white tails that elegantly trail about a foot beyond their bodies. No photos of them. They are not common and not close. But I was able to get a photo of the beautiful dark-grey sea gulls with red-rimmed eyes that Camilo says help them see at night.

Red-eyed, red-footed sea gulls

Here nature is left as it is as much as possible, so nothing is sanitized either. Carcasses are left where they expire, a reminder that this habitat is not here just for human visitors to enjoy. It is first and foremost a natural habitat.

Iguana skeleton, Santa Fe Island

Sea lion pup carcas, Islas Plazas

Santa Fe Island
Before lunch we navigated for an hour or so to Santa Fe Island, where I experienced the Galapagos underwater for the first time. Sea lions really do check out divers, and the marine life is incredibly abundant, with enormous schools of fish glittering along in waves.

But the highlight was the marine turtles. I was the last one in the dinghy at the end of the snorkel because I was watching a two-and-a-half foot wide turtle swim by. Once we were all aboard, we took a short ride to the middle of the cove where three huge turtles were clearly visible against the white sandy bottom. We all jumped back in to have a look. Marine turtles are very shy, but here not as much as other places. In any other dive/snorkel trip, seeing just one turtle would be amazing - the highlight of the trip.

After a quick shower to wash off the salt, it was time for another land adventure, this time a wet landing. Our skilled dinghy driver, Luis, backed the boat onto the beach and we all hopped off into the surf. More giant prickly pears which, Camilo says, are in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the largest in the world.

But this island was a forest of “holy trees”, called such because they bloom at Christmas, apparently. Their white bark reminded me of a birch forest in winter, and the island is filled with them, as are many others in the area.

Holy tree, one of a forest, Santa Fe island

Land iguana, Seymour Island

This evening was more exciting than the previous one. We had several hours navigation to our next destination, but I made the mistake of waiting to shower and get organized for the next day until after the boat started moving. Big mistake. Although I’d been wearing pressure-point wristbands to ward off motion sickness, this was too much.

I took a Dramamine, but still felt nauseated. I know fresh air is the cure, so I climbed back on deck after nearly everyone had gone to bed and found the most incredible moon over the horizon I’d ever seen. Refreshed a bit, I stumbled back down to my bunk and tried to sleep as I and my stomach sloshed along until 3 a.m. when we finally reached Española Island.